Planting

While field layout should be determined well in advance of planting, the actual distribution of plants in the field is determined at planting. Grading of transplants is very important. Plants of the same size and grade can be expected to grow at approximately the same rate and should be planted together, thereby reducing production and harvesting problems. (Be sure to purchase the largest and best grades of liners. About half of the liners from a seed bed may not be large enough or have adequately branched root systems to be planted.) Most nurseries take one to three years to harvest a field. After this time, the plants are usually overgrown, misshaped, and too large to handle, which makes maintaining the field unprofitable. However, in recent years, large, mechanical tree spades have provided a cost-effective means for transplanting trees bigger than 6 inches in caliper if they are accessible to equipment and have been well maintained, well spaced, and have unrestricted canopies.

Spacing both between and in rows is critical. Rows inadequately spaced for the tractor or mower result in damaged plants or extra labor costs. Within the row, a plant needs space to develop an acceptable shape.

To ensure that rows will be planted straight, mark the first row with rope, strings, wire, or some similar guide attached to stakes. Set plants at the determined spacing along this line, then make sure that the second row is planted parallel to the first. These first two rows are then used as a guide for planting the rest of the field. A steady hand is important when planting mechanically, because the tracks of the tractor tire are often used as the guide to ensure a uniformly spaced field.

Mechanical transplanters are well suited for planting a large number of similarly sized plants. To facilitate mechanical transplanting it is helpful to grade transplants carefully and be sure the field is relatively level and uniform. If you can not meet these conditions, you should plant by hand.

Although field-ready transplants should be sufficiently hardened to withstand the rigors of field production, they should be kept moist and shaded as much as possible before being planted. Particular care should be given to keeping roots from drying out. Soak roots for 1-2 hours within 24 hours of planting to help increase the moisture in plants and improve their chances of survival. Various starch-based hydrogel dips may also be useful in keeping roots from drying out.

Transplants should be set into moist soil. This is one reason most field planting is done in early spring. Furthermore, transplants set in spring will have the opportunity to establish a root system before flushing tender foliage that loses water rapidly. Also transplants are often not available from field-grown liner producers until late January or February. Freeze-thaw cycles during winters have made late fall and winter plantings less successful in the upper piedmont and mountains. Planting in the lower piedmont and coastal plain can be successful when liners are available.

Even where liners are set into moist soil or water is applied to the planting hole by a mechanical transplanter, it is a good idea to water recently set transplants within 24 hours after planting. Water, whether from a sprinkler truck, irrigation, or rain, will help firm soil around roots, thereby eliminating air pockets that might dry plants out.

For most species, liners should be set at the same level as they were growing in the transplant bed. If soil is particularly soft at planting, liners may be set slightly higher to allow for settling. Only set plants deeper than they were already growing if you know of a specific benefit to your particular crop. Setting liners too deep could result in stunted growth and death of many species.